Expat turned Immigrant

This is going to hopefully answer another set of questions I received:
I’d love to know more about how you feel about living in the States. Why did you decide to stay here instead of going back to Germany? What surprises you about living here? Are you ever planning on moving back to Europe?

On a trail in Tilden Park
Walk in Berkley’s Tilden Park in 2005

I guess I should start all the way back in 2005 when we first moved here. Back then it was pretty common to do a postdoc in the US if someone wants to work in academia (my husband). We came here with every intention to leave again and go back “home” to Germany or at least Europe after those 3-5 years that mentioned postdoc work was complete (is it ever though?). Never in my life would I have thought I would move to the US one day. I got on my first flight in my late 20s and the farthest away from home I moved was in the next bigger city (Hannover) which is only an hour away from my hometown.

It so happened that my husband was offered a really great opportunity where he did his postdoc that was not that easy to beat – and so it happened that we stayed longer than the 5 years planned. I still considered myself an expatriate – a person who lives outside their native country – and I still thought we would move back eventually. We had our kids in 2008 and 2011, they started daycare, preschool, school and before we knew it they are half grown. I had a really rough time in stretches because I don’t like living so far away from family but I also knew that if we moved back just because I pushed really hard and my husband would take a job he would not be happy with just to make me happy that would not go well either. So far it was just all coincident that we stayed (at least in my thinking). In 2018 we decided to move to a bigger house and ended up talking to a realtor to also look at houses to buy. That also made us talk about how we imagined our life to go in the next couple of years/decades to come. I think that was the point when the realization set in that we were here to stay and it helped me to settle this in my mind, too. So stepping into our very own house we became immigrants I guess – people who come to live permanently in a foreign country. Yes, it is a better career for my husband but also for me the work I am doing at the University offers better pay and more appreciation I could ever expect in Germany. After having visas and then green-cards all these years we applied first to keep our German citizenship and then also applied for the US citizenship. We were able to vote in the 2020 election for the first time and it felt so good to have a say in what happens in the country we call home now, too. I am still not ruling out that we move back at some point or back to Europe in general but I think we will stay for sure until the kids finish high school. They know German but they only know Germany from our summer visits and it would be hard on them now. You can have a really good life in Germany but we also have a really good life here. We are fortunate enough that we have good salaries, good retirement through our jobs and health insurance.

One thing that really surprised me is how international it is where we live. Since UC Berkeley and I guess the whole Bay Area attracts so many international students and workers it makes it very diverse and colorful. I have friends from Ukraine, Mexico, Brazil, France, Argentina and my kids went to a daycare run by an American-Japanese family. That is something I would miss would we move back to Germany.
A couple of other things I was surprised about:

  • Most restaurants closed at 9pm – why so early?
  • You finish eating and you will get the check right away – sometimes even before that. This really took some getting used to.
  • Learning English 9 years and then using the language every day are two very different things (subtitles were my friend and it really helped to get used to it).
  • You always have to add the tax to the prices.
  • How great the park system is. Besides the National Parks there are so many state parks.

I am pretty sure there are more that I don’t remember right now.

Are we ever moving back to Europe? I honestly don’t know. Maybe we do, maybe we don’t. It may depend where the kids end up? When I learned something in all this then it is that you can make plans and than life ends up completely different and not in a bad way at all. We very likely would have a reverse culture shock by now since time did not stand still over in Europe either. I hope that by the time we retire we still have some time to explore the world. A lot of our free time is spend with visiting family and exploring the US a little closer to home during the shorter breaks.

Did you end up in a place close to your family or do you happen to live far away, too? Are you planning to move in the coming years or do you think you will stay put?

Questions answered round 1

I did not get a whole lot of questions but thought I do answer a couple before I turn in for the night. It has been a busy day, with packing and moving things around, lunch with my aunt and uncle what was lovely, making plans which furniture my dad is going to take what things my brother wants to keep and so on.
Picture pretty unrelated but Germany feels like real fall now with falling leaves (and a lot of rain).

On a short fall walk

So here it goes round one:

Do you keep up with a lot of friends in Germany?
Today I met with a friend I know from high school, but as we were sitting together over dinner we tried to remember when we saw each other last and it was sometime before the pandemic. It was really fun and we had a good evening but in between those visits we only hear from each other occasionally. I have one friend who happens to live in the same town as my parents in-law now, what makes seeing her a lot easier. And she is also the one friend who will get in touch with me and not the other way around. It sometimes is a little exhausting as for most friendships I am the one who reaches out when we are visiting. It does make sense because how should they know when we are in Germany any other way but most also don’t check in with me. It still feels like nothing changed between us in all the time we don’t hear or see each other but we also miss a lot of the day to day things that make up life and change you so sometimes I wonder how well do we really still know us. On the other hand it makes it really interesting because it is a little like meeting a whole new person each time. It gets harder as time passes living so far away, but I think by now I am down to the friends who will stay with me. I am not constantly in touch but I know who I can call on to meet up and they will have time for me. It’s an effort but it’s an effort that is worth it. I probably should re-read this when I am ever in doubt about it.

Did you play any sports growing up?
Growing up I took ballet classes for a year. There was this really popular TV show called “Anna” about a girl who wanted to be a ballerina. Do you want to take a guess why I thought ballet was a good idea?
I also briefly tried jiu-jitsu and table tennis but it did not really stick.

Did you play any instruments?
I played the recorder and recently picked up alto recorder a little. I played piano on and off and even though I enjoy it and still play occasionally it’s just for me as relaxation – I just never was really good. I know a couple of guitar cords. And I also played trumpet in the local church brass orchestra and looking back I liked this best for the community.

Do you know this dish?

Knipp on bread

Does this look appetizing to you? To me it does not. It really does not look pretty. When my dad told me that my brother asked for Knipp for dinner I was taken a little aback honestly. The last time I had it was maybe 10 years ago. I did not like it when I was a kid and I did not like it 10 years back. But I guess it has grown on me since then (refined taste buds maybe?) even though it still looks like a grayish gooey mess.
Knipp is basically meat with grains, onions, and spices and according to the internet something very specific to Bremen and Lower Saxony in Germany. In the old days they used the leftover meat bits that could not be used for anything else and I am secretly imagining that this might have changed. In our house it is usually served with a very dark bread and pickled cucumbers (sour, not sweet). It was actually very good I thought.

Knipp blog in a pan

When you buy Knipp at the meat counter you usually are confronted with a very big sausage kind of looking thing (about 10-15cm in diameter) and you can decide how big of a portion you want cut off. All you have to do for prep is fry it in a pan and you are done – so it is a very easy meal.

Fryed Knipp in a pan

This is how it looks like when it is almost done. Some people like it gooey, some like it better when it is browned a bit (me please). Is it something my kids would eat? Likely not. It is not a choice for anyone vegetarian or vegan.

This suddenly reminds me: at our elemantary school we had a food challenge a couple of years for international night. We were presented with three interesting food choices of one specific country. I think Knipp would have been an excellent challenge option if Germany ever made it to the challenge.

Do you have an interesting delicacy where you are from?

Travel day to Germany

View of the Pacific from above

View from the plane

One reason I was reluctant to sign up for NaBloPoMo was that I already knew I would be traveling to Germany for a week. My dad is getting ready to move out of my childhood home and his home for over 50 years and I promised I help a bit. So the next days will be filled with sorting, deciding what will be packed to go with him, Sorting through the last remaining things I want to keep and saying good bye to my home town (more on this to come in another post).

Solo travel feels very special to me as I usually never get to do it these days. It involves quite a bit of planning ahead since I am the family organizer. I keep telling myself they will manage without me.

Back to travel day: Bags were packed the day before so everything was ready to go besides the last chargers and some food in case the airline falls short.
I left the house at 10am to be driven to the Bart station. Luckily the next train went straight to SFO so I did not have to change. I got there at 11:30am and only had to drop of my checked bags. Isn’t it amazing you can do most everything online now? It’s a nightmare for my 80 year old dad but I do appreciate not having to stay in line for an hour (or longer) to check in. By noon I was through security and went on a search for some lunch. At SFO we somehow always end up at the domestic terminal for that even flying internationally. Boarding started on time at 1:50pm. The flight was supposed to leave at 2:40pm but to no big surprise it took a little longer as we were still waiting for some passengers.

The flight itself was pretty uneventful. I am not very hopeful about food on United flights but this time the chicken curry was edible. I always wonder why they even bother with the roles as I think they are pretty disgusting (sorry). The flight to Munich takes about 10 hours and I spend my time knitting, reading,watching movies and writing back and forth with my family about a lost ID card I was sure I saw in the living room the day before. Unfortunately sleep was a short hour or so. Arrival in Munich was at ~9:50am the following day (Nov. 3rd) and everything worked like a charm. Passport control was a breeze, the new gate was posted and it was not to far and after another hour sleep on the plane to Hannover we touched down at 12:55pm. The bag was collected and my dad picked me up from the airport, hurray.

The drive to my hometown Wietzen takes another hour and we stopped for a late lunch on the way.

Schnitzel with a mushroom gravy and fries
Jaegerschnitzel mit Pommes (Schnitzel with a mushroom gravy and fries)

We were back in the door at around 3:40pm German and currently 7:40am West Coast time. If my calculation is correct it was 21 hours, 40 minutes this time with no special surprises.

I did take a quick nap because 2 hours of sleep and fell asleep again on the couch after dinner. Wish me luck I can sleep tonight because I don’t handle jetlag very well. Any advice on that? Maybe there is something I have not tried yet but mostly I go with the flow these days.

Do you often get to travel solo and do you manage to pack light?

Any advice on how to deal with saying goodbye to your childhood home?

Introduction round

Hello lovely readers,

I thought since I usually don’t post that much during the year other than NaBloPoMo I start with a small introduction with 10 random facts about me that may help you to get to know me a little better.

  1. I am originally from Germany.
    I grew up in the northern German countryside, moved to the next bigger city for my education, worked a couple of years in that same city and moved to California in 2005 with my husband and like so many others around here we happen to stay.
  2. I am a mom.
    I have two very awesome kids (14 and 12). It’s a really big part of my life and they might come up in a side note but I decided to keep that part of my life offline. It’s tricky sometimes but I think it’s their life and therefore it should be their choice.
  3. I am a scientist.
    I wrote more about that at last year’s NaBloPoMo here.
  4. I am middle aged.
    Oh the joys of getting older but honestly most of the time I do like it. I know myself better and care less what other people think about me (the emphasis is on less here – don’t judge, it’s a work in progress).
  5. I am not a morning person.
    Don’t talk to me before I had my first cup of coffee.
  6. I like to do things with my hands.
    I have lots of handy hobbies, like knitting, sewing, gardening, painting, crafting. Take your pick.
  7. I have a conflicting relationship with sports.
    I know that exercise is good for me and I enjoy it when I started but it’s really hard for me to keep up a routine. With working, kids activities and home chores it seems a real effort to fit it in.
  8. I tend to read the end of a book before it’s done.
    A lot of people will think this is really a no go but if the book is too exciting I can’t stop reading which really is not good for my sleep. If the book is boring the end resolve helps me make a decision if I keep at it or not.
  9. My favorite holiday season is Christmas.
    I have so many sentimental memories of Christmas time and it’s just really big in Germany.
  10. Black clothes make me feel safe.
    I always had an attraction to black. It’s like an armour. I do like lots of other colors and they brighten up my dark wardrobe but on a difficult day – black it is.

Do you have a question for me or think I should write more about one of the facts please fill out this form to help me decide.

Now it’s you r turn. What is one random fact about yourself?

NaBloPoMo 2023

Halloween cats

November 1st and here we are again. I participated in National Blog Posting Month (NaBloPoMo) last year and I had so much fun doing it. It was a real happiness boost for me during the shorter days even though it was also a lot of work but I so appreciated the connections happening. My online friend San over at the in between is mine is getting us organized again and I really want to give it a go a 2nd time around. She has a list of this years participants and also the ones from previous years.

Lesson learned from last year: 30 days is not enough to form a habit. I wanted to blog more but life had other plans. I have this tendency that if I have a lot on my mind I can’t or don’t want to talk about online I usually don’t at all. No worries, we are doing fine.

But onto a better and brighter month ahead! I did not make any plans for posts yet (I probably should have) but if everything fails I can always carry over my #project365 from Instagram. I enjoyed taking a picture each day this year. This is what I liked about Instagram in the first place – the pictures that give you a little glimpse into daily (or not so daily) life. Sometimes I had to play catch up because there were days filled with work where I just did not take a picture and I got tricked into creating a reel twice I believe but I almost made it.

I look forward to lots of reading blog posts and getting to meet old and new “faces” in the process.

Migraine Diary

Fog in the streets
Foggy morning

I suspected last night. There was a very strong smell in the kitchen. I threw out an old container with coleslaw but had cleaned afterwards or had I? I cleaned ones more but the smell still lingered. And I was tired, oh so tired. I usually turn the lights out by 11pm or midnight but was dozing off around 10pm already. I was feeling fine so I told myself I am just tired and probably missed some funny smelling leftover somewhere.

5:15am – I walk up with my right temple beating meaning the warning signs were right after all. Maybe I should have set my alarm to 4pm? It takes about two hours for the medication to properly kick in so that would have helped considering the main alarm goes off at 6am (and yes, I know that going to sleep at midnight leaves me with only 6 hours sleep which is not enough, but that is for another day). I get up and take my migraine medication (a triptan) and rinse down the taste with 2 ibuprofen (doctor recommended) and lots of water. For good measure I apply some tiger balm to my temple and neck and go back to sleep.

6am – The morning alarm goes off. Two hours are not up yet so the head is still throbbing. I hit snooze three more times before getting up for good. Breakfast for the kids and coffee and cereal for me.

7am – I slowly feel the pain abate. I take a hot shower even though the water feels like pin pricks on my skin (one of the side effects of the medication for me) but it still helps wake me up for good. Lunches need to be packed and one of the kids reminded to get ready (so thankful for my independent teenager). The kitchen still smells funny but apparently it’s just me who smells it.

7:45am – Load up the car with me and one kid and off we go. Grateful that I treated myself to a monthly parking pass this month. Headache is gone now but oh so tired. I make it to work alright.

8:30am – Sitting at my desk at work I contemplate what to do (or not do) today. Because I always feel slightly exhausted even after the pain is gone I tend to be more clumsy and slow. Since my work includes chemicals and biohazards I want to be sure I am up to the tasks ahead. Deciding on the cell culture room and some very easy tasks. I need to pay extra attention but I can do this!

10:30am – I finally starting to feel more like myself. So far I did not make any mistakes so all is well. It’s my lucky day.

Just for some general context: I had migraines on and off since my teenage years. They stopped in between to really kick back in during my early 20s when I got properly diagnosed. I am not sure if it’s done the same way but basically they ruled out any other neurological problem and my symptoms are textbook pretty. I have the pulsating pain on one side of my head (worst behind my eye), darkness is my friend and I am nauseous if the pain is too strong. I tried relaxation techniques, acupuncture, beta blockers, not eating certain types of food, cutting out alcohol – nothing of the then available preventive measures seemed to help. The acute medication did though (to the extend described above on most days). Apparently for me it’s mostly hormonal and related to weather changes. When we first moved to Northern California the very constant climate helped get them down from weekly to monthly what was a big relieve at the time. During both my pregnancies and two years after I did not have a single one. It recently got worse again with almost weekly attacks. There are some new treatment options out there but for now I am hoping it will calm down again eventually.

Things that help me get through the migraine day:

  • Sleep, sleep, sleep
  • Tiger Balm on my temple and neck
  • A quiet room
  • Herbal Tea
  • Heating Pad for my neck (cold compress as you see recommended lost of places – not so much for me, so you just have to try)
  • Taking the medication early enough

It’s okay, I am okay. I did not want to complain, I just wanted to share. If you have them, know that I am sorry and that you are not alone. If you have recurring headaches the first step should be a visit to your doctor to try and rule out more serious issues and to find solutions. It may be tricky but you might be able to discover triggers which you potentially can avoid. The American Migraine Foundation and the National Headache Foundation have lots of helpful resources including information on medications and therapies. There is hopefully something out there that will or already is helping you. I learned to live with it but I probably will never get used to it. I still feel a little guilty when I have to call in sick at work because of it or feeling bad because I barely manage to take care of my kids and have to leave it to my husband. It’s still like missing a day out of your live so for me that is probably around 40-52/year.

Procrastination

Instagram Part 1

I can’t believe it has almost been a month since I last posted. January sure went by in a blur. I think there is something to the beginning of the year that always pulls the ground away under my feet. The holidays had been so lovely not having to do anything (or at least very little) and back to school and work through me into the full of it. I was also lost in thought on some topics that bothered me. My daughter is starting high school after the summer and all of her best friends applied to private schools whereas we are planning to send her to the local public school. Some of her friends’ parents are not happy with the academic aspect, some are worried because of safety (there were a couple of lock downs in the past year). I had long talks with her if she would be interested in private school but she says she is fine about going to the public one. I admire her resilience. Part of me questions our choices and part of me is just sad and feels a little betrayed. All this may stem from my own high school experience what was ok but could have been better. The school system in Germany is very different but I ended up as the only girl from my town at a new school and I had a ruff time in patches – no fun. I so hope she is going to have a better experience. I also have pretty strong feelings about the whole private school system. I sometimes wonder what the public system would look like if all the money that people pour in the private school education would benefit the public system. Dreaming of a better world, sigh. Dealing with all the emotions made me retreat for a while.

Instagram part 2

What I have been doing and want to keep up for this year is project 365 on Instagram. Posting an image a day an adding a short blurb if I have time for that seems way more achievable these days. Stephany and San are also doing it and I am enjoying see some more pictures on there again instead of the reels which are so popular these days. There is something with moving pictures that draws you in and I tend to spend way more time on there when I look at stories and reels. It annoys me to no end. It also annoyed me to no end that one reel snug in there but oh well. So today here are the first 27 images from project 365. Are you using Instagram and/or other social media? What are using it for? I also have a Facebook account but honestly only keep it because I am still part of a buy nothing group and various other groups where I sometimes find helpful information. Instagram I like because it helps me with my sewing projects, to find a new pattern I want to try and to see how it looks on other people. I also still keep up with some friends on there (remember the old days when Facebook was a place for that?) and to see what is happening locally. I also have a LinkedIn account for work but deleted my Twitter account recently. I am tempted to also delete my Nextdoor account but keep it for the occasional neighborhood check-in. I mostly try to stay off on there. It was a good idea but people are so argumentative and sometimes mean that I can’t stand it.

Instagram part 3

What do the pictures tell you? They remind me that there was a lot of rain in January, that we had a power outage, that I started baking bread again, that there was sunshine and delayed Christmas presents, time spend in the garden and on diy projects (knitting, crochet and wreath making), that we dog sat and that I went on some walks in the neighborhood. What it does not show you is how busy January was at work. I agreed to teach two undergrads who work in the lab and it took some getting used to to integrating their schedule in mine. But it also is a lot of fun even if it requires so much talking all day long. It does not show you the time it took to write e-mails to my son’s class regarding an upcoming science camp or the time spend shuttling the kids around to new classes (pottery and gymnastics). My daughter had a competition with her jazz band and my son had his second junior black belt test in Taekwondo. All very exciting. It does not show my inner struggle with the upcoming switch to high school or that I have been keeping up with my exercise better than in previous years. I managed to go to the gym or on a run 2-3 times per week what is a step in the right direction. One of my former colleagues mentioned on Instagram that she does not know how I do it all but I guess it’s an explanation why I have not been on the blog for almost a month. I will be back, promise. But tell me, how was your January?

Go big or go home

Spelling bee list

There is a lot of test prep happening in our house lately. My kids both have German exams coming up and my son is participating in his school’s spelling bee. The German tests are mostly multiple choice questions with a listening-understanding and reading-understanding part at different difficulty levels. Some of the answers even I find not completely straight forward but I find that to be the case with most multiple choice tests. As usual my daughter does that independently whereas I basically have to sit next to my son so that he will stay focused. You don’t know how the test will look like but practicing with old tests helps a little to learn what to pay attention to when the actual testing day comes along. With the amount of complaining he does about the actual test, the stupidity of the questions, etc. I sometimes question myself if this is all a good idea but I think I said this before. Considering the amount of complaining and claims of misunderstanding he does surprisingly well on the practice tests.

I can help him with his German but I have my phone and my daughter to help with the list of spelling words. For a good chunk I would not do the pronunciation correctly and sometimes I even don’t know the word – so it is a learning experience for me, too. I told my son when looking at practicing his spelling words he should apply “klotzen, nicht kleckern” what is a German idiom for ‘go big, or go home’ I guess. It can mean to work really hard on something, or to put in a lot of effort (to achieve the optimal result in the end). A “Klotz” is a big block or chunk of something like a wood block or a concrete block. A “Klecks” is a small speck. So he should use a block and not a speck in direct translation. Anyway he seems not to concerned about the whole thing. The last couple of years another girl from his grade won the spelling bee and I fully expect she will do so again (and I think so does he). She has way more competitiveness in her than either of my kids and I am fine with that. To say it with another German idiom “Der Apfel fällt nicht weit vom Stamm” – “The apple does not fall far from the tree.”

Do you have a favorite idiom? I am sure there are plenty in English I don’t know about. I like them and as Amélie said in the movie of the same name (at least in the German versin) “Someone who knows idioms, can’t be a bad person.”

When looking at the translation of ‘Nicht kleckern, klotzen!’ I saw that it is also the German book title written by a public figure I rather not name – I might never use this phrase again.

Goodbye 2022, hello 2023

Golden Gate Bridge in the rain

I am wishing you a very happy, healthy and peaceful 2023!
On 12/31 the old year said goodbye to us with a serious downpour in the Bay Area. It always blows my mind that whenever ‘unexpected’ weather hits the area (and that seems to be true for other areas in the US as well) everything collapses. The drains were sorely clogged up in many areas and we felt like we had to drive through rivers on some roads going into San Francisco that day. We later learned that we actually were fairly lucky. I saw pictures online with people surfing the streets and a section of 101 south of the city was closed. There was an evacuation order in place for another town close by due to flooding. With 5.46″ of rain in San Francisco that day it was the 2nd wettest day on record. Considering all that we were extremely lucky with our small garage leak. There is another atmospheric river passing over us this week with the most expected for Wednesday – we will see.

Mask of a pharao plated in gold
Burial mask

On New Year’s Eve we had tickets for the “Ramses the Great‘ exhibit at the De Young museum in San Francisco (so that is why we drove into the city what we almost never do). I think it was pretty fantastic and we managed to walk through without major complains even from our strongest museum critic (our son). It’s still on through February 12th if you are interested and you have to get tickets in advance. I just wished we had eaten lunch before we went or at least taken something because there was a long line at the cafe and honestly it was a little too upscale a menu for some of us. I was glad we came a little early to walk a little through the rest of the museum before our timed tickets which was fun, too (at least I thought so). On the way back we decided to have a late lunch at In-N-Out Burger.

Statue with a face with
Another museum fin

The rest of New Year’s Eve was pretty quiet for us. We had raclette for dinner. It’s basically a mini table top grill where everyone has their own little pan that is filled with raclette cheese (or other cheese if you prefer) and other things like corn, onion, tomatoes, bacon, mini sausages, etc. We had boiled potatoes and a dip with it, too. It’s popular to do in Germany even though it originates in Switzerland. After dinner we watched ‘Spider-Man: No Way Home” as requested but took a break to be continued in the New Year since everyone was falling asleep (not the fault of the movie I assure you). We adults tried to stay awake a little longer but fell asleep on the couch only to wake up again after midnight. The champagne we had before dinner gave me a migraine so I was a little extra tired anyway.

I am always a little puzzled why this last day of the year is such a big deal. I enjoyed reading all the word of the year and goal posts (past, present and future) but for now this is just nothing I want for myself. Maybe when I have a little more breathing room in my life I will think about it more deeply.

Now the daily trot has us back – school, work and the likes. Since it is raining this week I picked up my daughter from school yesterday. That meant being home earlier than usual and I got the chance to take a walk outside before the rain started during daylight hours. Sunsets are always something to behold in the bay and I love the views peaking through the houses. If I would make a resolution I probably would say I want to go on a 30 minute walk every day. That is doable, right?

Deep orange sunset over the bay with a peak of the Golden Gate Bridge and Mount Tam
Sunset over the bay